Board Shorts, Clothing, and Equipment
In traditional Hawaiian societies surfing and the type of board ridden determined a person’s social status in the community. A surf board ranged from the commoners finless body board made from the Koa tree to the larger and more advanced Alaia which is the forerunner to the modern surfboard and ranged from 6-12 feet in length. Once mastered, a commoner could move on to the Kiko’o which was longer and ensured a person’s place at the top of society.
At the top of society, as well being the best surfers, the Ali’i ride an even larger board that is made of the buoyant wili wili wood. They even have their own breaks that are reserved for the elite, any trespassing can be punished with death. In many surfing locales this attitude is prevalent till this day. The best breaks in the world have their own territorial guardians and it is best not to trespass unless you are confident in your ability to out-surf the locals and quick on your feet.
While today’s most talented surfers are not at the top of society, their ethos almost prevents that from happening, they are enjoying life more than any world leader, politician, or CEO. Their lifestyle is sought after, their style is mimicked, and still more people know the cast of The OC and mimic their style but have never heard of Kit Horn, Gerry Lopez or Duke Kahanamoku.
What is surfing style? True style is in the way life is lived, though it can be mimicked by superficial clothing and styles. It’s not the clothing worn, but how it is worn. It is what is talked about and it’s how the world is perceived. Not all surfers are laid back, scruffy and blonde either. Simply throwing on a pair of board shorts or surf clothing won’t change an uptight prick into the essence of cool, but it might help. Comfort and functionality are important for surfers.
Clothing and images may represent surfers, but they can’t make anyone a surfer. Only practice and love of the ocean and riding waves makes a landlubber a surfer. One can’t just buy the best surf equipment and try to ride the best breaks, they have to earn it just like the ancient Hawaiians did. Clothing only hides the sunburn and rash and any sunglasses can hide red eyes. You have to skip school, travel hundreds of miles, spend your last dollar, sleep in the sand, and hitch back home just to ride waves a little bigger than you have at home. This is what gives a surfer style.
It doesn’t matter whether they ride a longboard, short board, or even a kiteboard, it’s about the love of the ocean, the power of the waves, and the floating buttery feeling that comes with effortless riding the smoothest, longest breaks mother nature has to offer. It is a feeling that once experienced is religiously sought after again, like a junkie looking for their next fix. Only by loosing themselves to the ocean do they attain nirvana and become one with nature.